5 Questions with Metal Effects

One of our most popular product lines is Metal Effects. The collection creates amazing blue and green verdigris and rust patinas – they’re so beautiful and so easy! Here at Modern Masters, we play around with the patinas weekly and also talk with creative customers around the world about the line. We wanted to share the Top 5 questions we receive and our best recommendations and suggestions!5 Questions with Metal Effects | Modern Masters Blog

Q1: DO I REALLY HAVE TO USE THE PRIMER?

Using the Metal Effects Primer | 5 Tips for Using Metal Effects | Modern Masters BlogWe recommend it. Metal Effects undergoes a true oxidation process and you want that process to stay on top of your surface – not penetrate it! The Metal Effects Primer is a unique water base, acrylic primer designed to block the Patina Aging Solutions & Rust Activator from reaching the metal or wood surface chosen as a substrate. Other primers are not recommended as they allow the Patina Aging Solutions & Activators to penetrate through to the substrate and may disrupt both the patina and the process.

Q2: AM I USING THE RIGHT METALLIC PAINT?

5 Amazing Tips for Using Metal Effects |Modern Masters BlogThe Copper Reactive Metallic Paint and the Bronze Reactive Metallic Paint from the Metal Effects line are unique, water base paints that contain real metal particles meant to oxidize. The copper and bronze colors from our original Metallic Paint Collection are not meant to patina and will not oxidize when paired with the Patina Aging Solutions & Activators. Make sure to stay within the Metal Effects line for the best results!

Q3: WHEN SHOULD I USE THE ACTIVATORS?

5 Tips for Using Modern Masters Metal EffectsTiming is everything – and that sage advice works for Metal Effects Solutions and Activators, too! When using the Blue and Green Patina Aging Solutions, ensure you spray while the second coat of the Copper Reactive Metallic Paint or Bronze Reactive Metallic Paint is wet. For the Rust Activator, the Iron Reactive Paint needs to have two dry solid coats for best results. Please note: the second coat must be dry for one hour before activation!

Q4: I'D LIKE THE GREEN TO BE A DIFFERENT GREEN. POSSIBLE? 

5 Tips for Working with Metal Effects | Cabinet Door Patina & StencilsYou cannot control the oxidized colors too much and this is part of the beauty! As it is a natural patina finish, temperature and humidity play a part in the color development of Metal Effects patinas – just like Mother Nature.

Q5: I'VE SEEN SOMEONE SATURATE THE METAL EFFECTS. CAN I DO THIS?

5 Metal Effects Tips | Modern Masters BlogMany do like a deeper patina and saturate the surface with the Patina Aging Solutions. Beautiful results can occur! Do not over saturate the finish so much that you wash off the wet Reactive Metallic Paint – they are meant to work together!

We hope our sharing the five most popular Q&As we have help you with your next Metal Effects project! If you have a question about Metal Effects that is not covered, you can leave it for us in the comments! Be sure to share your projects with us by tagging us on any social site or using the #ModernMasters hashtag. Stay inspired!

To purchase Metal Effects, head to our online shop or find your local retailer via zipcode. Please call ahead to assure of stock and if not in-house, it can be ordered in for you. Have an inspired day!

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29 thoughts on “5 Questions with Metal Effects

  1. I am painting four garden pots with an iron rust effect. The first pot that I added the activator, I did not add enough. After half an hour there were still grey patches, so I decided to add another layer of activator. I now seemed to have washed off quite a bit of the first layer, the pot is now really streaky. Help. How do I sole this?

    • Hi, Melissa! We have one of two theories. We are not sure if you used the Metal Effects Primer first, but if you did not and it was a ceramic pot, the ceramic might be sucking up the materials and not allowing it to oxidize properly. The Metal Effects Primer would help prime the surface and provide a good base for the Reactive Paint. If you did use the Metal Effects Primer, we believe there might not have been enough Iron Reactive Paint on the pieces as the activator might not have had enough paint to react to. For now, we would recommend painting full coats of the Permacoat Xtreme sealer on the pots, which will stop any oxidation and then starting over from the Metallic Primer on up. If you’d rather not use the Permacoat Xtreme, you could also sand down the project very thoroughly before starting with the Metal Effects Primer again. Thank you, Melissa – let us know if we can help further.

  2. Pingback: Copper Patina Flower Pots - Modern Masters - Pinterest Addict

  3. I have been working on a project using your copper along with the green and blue patina. I have it complete and to my liking and it has cure for 3 or 4 days. I am wanting to clear coat all 3 pieces with a heavy duty 2k/2 part spray max clear coat and can’t find any info on using this clear coat on any projects. Do you know if it will have any effects on the petina or change the look etc.? If not maybe you can point me in the right direction of someone who may have used a similar clear on a project so I can get an idea of outcome.
    Thanks!

  4. Hello! Love this line and want to do a ceiling with layers of the rust and blue patina. Could you give me direction on the best way to create a colorful layered effect? Thanks so much for your help!

    Best,
    Wendy

  5. I am wanting to paint my truck with theach iron reactive paint, with a high gloss polyurethane (oilbase) automotive clear coat over the top. Is this possible?

    • Hello, Mr. Leasure – Most will use our Permacoat Xtreme sealer on the rust first. Then, it’s usually followed with an acrylic automotive clear in a Matte finish. Automotive oil base clears can sometimes be a little to hot, chemically, and can wrinkle the system. We hope this helps.

  6. hi i didnt use your primer and put on coat of bronze on my wooden birdhouse.. i was wondering if i can go back and apply a coat of your primer and start over again with the bronze

  7. I painted the copper then sprayed the green aging solution on and there is to much copper is there anyway I can make it all tarnish

    • Jared, we heard from our studio and they have more guidance: Make sure two coats have been applied and activate within 5 minutes of the second application. If it is a larger surface, make sure to use a larger plastic spray bottle and not our spritzer cap. We hope this helps!

  8. My project was a heavily textured wall. I would like for the green patina to be more prevalent. Now that it is all dry can I spray more patina on it to get it more effective?

    • Hi, Debbie! Once the patina has developed and dried, applying more activator usually does not create a stronger patina. Because it is a texture, the patina tends to develop more in the recesses than the peaks. The resolution could be to apply a little thicker of a second coat and not soak the surface so that the color can develop slower and allow for the application of more activator as the color develops. We hope this helps!

  9. Can I use this to paint a car? If so, what kind of finish coat would I use? Could it be outside in the weather without hurting the paint job?

    • Diana, Yes you can. We would recommend prepping a car as much as possible to ensure success and then using an acrylic primer that goes over a solvent-based primer specifically for automobiles or an automobile primer that is acrylic. Then, you would use the Metal Effects Primer over this followed by the Reactive Paint and Aging Solutions. The Metal Effects Primer protects the substrate surface from the patination process but you do need a good automobile primer over your prepped surface to begin with. If using the Rust finish, we would recommend the Permacoat Xtreme as the sealer and topcoat. We would recommend two diluted coats of Xtreme followed by an automotive matte clear. As a last note, the Metal Effects is more of a decorative finish for a show car – not a car that would be used daily. Btw, here is a post with the Metal Effects on a car: http://modernmasterscafe.com/2014/10/31/the-rat-look-on-a-beetle-with-modern-masters/ We hope this helps and please let us know if we can answer further questions!

    • Hi, Heather! Please ensure you have complete coverage of the Iron Reactive Paint over the Metal Effects Primer. Two solid coats should do it. Please let us know if we can help further!

  10. Hi, my oxidizing iron paint seems to be drying up in it’s container. Is there anything I can add to liquefy it?

    Thanks!

    • Hi, Lisa! Depending on how old and how much head space is in the jar, you may be able to add a little water and stir it up really well. Is it drying or thickening? If it is drying, you will not be able to save it most likely. If it is thickening, a little water may help.

  11. I can not get my ME579, Copper Penny (opaque) purchased in 2009 to Patina using Green Patina Aging Solution purched in 2017. My project is a poured concrete formed foutain. Is it possible that one or more crucial chemicals in the old Coppery Penny have been compromised over time? If you have any other sugested solutions, let me know.

  12. Hi
    I am using the materials specified for the turquoise gem project. On my sample boards I am finding that the bronze patina is not oxidising and is ending up a blackish colour rather than the intense blue/green required.

    I have done several sample boards – one with the suggested hydrogen peroxide and water (which I applied over wet patina solution) and got quite a muddy effect. Another sample board, I applied the patina solutions without the water and hydrogen peroxide. Two more sample boards were prepared and one had hydrogen peroxide only applied and one water only. Another two had the same treatment but after the patina solution had dried.

    The boards are painted and dried flat and the instructions have been followed. The copper oxidising paint is holding a good patina and the problem is in the bronze paint. I cannot shift it from the ‘blackish’ hue.

    What do you think I am doing wrong?

    • Hello, Cath! Make sure that the surface has the Metal Effects Primer on it and that the Bronze Reactive Metallic Paint has been stirred thoroughly. Usually, the blackening is from the heavy dose of activator. We rated the turquoise gem finish as an advanced DIY project so we do recommend becoming thoroughly familiar with the Metal Effects line and the various oxidizing techniques individually. Our technical support number is 818.683.0201 in case you’d like to speak to someone in person. We hope this helps!

  13. I have a table that is already stained and I’m wanting to paint a logo with this copper paint and reactant spray over it. Can I do that or will the spray inter fear with the stain?

    • Hi, Jordan! This one will depend on the actual stain that was used. If it was on oil stain or a Stain & Seal, it will have to be primed first for adhesion and not just directly worked over. We would recommend protecting as much of the stain as possible as well from the oxidation process. We hope this helps!

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